Since "Les Miserables" took place between 1815 and 1845, when poor people wore clothes that had been fashionable twenty years before, Delgado took costumes from the early scenes and put them on the extras in later scenes. Another little secret that was revealed: in spite of the name Sketch to Screen, it turns out many of the designers don't do elaborate sketches in advance and often if they are made at all, it is for the studio's marketing department long after the film has wrapped.
Working conditions, budgets and timing vary widely: Walicka had only three and a half weeks of prep time for "Moonrise Kingdom" and Steven Spielberg first mentioned "Lincoln" to Johnston in the mid 1990's. Once Johnson knew that "Lincoln" was a go, she started designing for Lincoln himself. She was surprised to learn how many photographs there were of the 16th President and while there were fewer of Mary Lincoln, there were enough to give her faith in the accuracy of her designs. Each of the designers talked about their research: many headed to libraries. But with few books containing photographs of working class Philadelphians, Mark Bridges went out for Philly cheese steaks, tried to casually snap pictures, and ended up buying some of the "Silver Linings Playbook" costumes at the King of Prussia Mall.
As for the garbage bag that Bradley Cooper runs in, it was mentioned in the novel "Silver Linings Playbook." Bridges laughed when a critic told him that the bag was an important metaphor for Cooper's character belief that he was "trash." No, Bridges clarified, it was just the character's way to promote sweat and get fit faster. Bridges also revealed that a plastic bag is not necessarily a plastic bag. They had to be especially made out of silent material; ordinary bags made a crinkling noise that interfered with recording.
Bridges also designed the costumes for "The Master," so even though he wasn't nominated, he dressed seven of the twenty actors in the four acting categories. He talked of the character development he witnessed as Joaquin Phoenix "grew into" his high-waist pants, changing his walk and the character's physicality accordingly.
This group of rarely heralded craftsman more often praised their coworkers than their own work. For instance, Walicka spoke of her dependence upon the Boston factory that managed to turn out the scout uniforms in record time and the staff of cleaners who picked up those uniforms every night after filming to clear them of ticks and any poison ivy residue before returning them to the young actor's rooms in time for them to dress in the morning.
Eventual Oscar-winner Jacqueline Durran has worked with director Joe Wright on several of his other films. It was liberating, she said, to design for a director who could tell her ahead of time just how a particular dress was going to be filmed. "Anna Karenina" marked the third time Durran has dressed Keira Knightley, who was "never distracted by vanity," thr designer said, and instead focused on the costumes as a way to build her characterization of Anna. However, she did acknowledge Keira was "very excited on the day the jewelry arrived, but we can forgive her for that."