By Bill Desowitz | Thompson on Hollywood January 9, 2014 at 2:05PM
The Oscar race for makeup and hairstyling has been very contentious. Making the shortlist were "American Hustle," "Dallas Buyers Club," "The Great Gatsby," "Hansel & Gretel Witch Hunters," "The Hunger Games: Catching Fire," "Jackass Presents: Bad Grandpa," and "The Lone Ranger." However, the list of snubs include "The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug," "Rush," "12 Years a Slave," "Lee Daniels' The Butler," "Oz the Great and Powerful," and "Star Trek Into Darkness," and "Man of Steel."
Among the three likely nominees to emerge from Saturday's "bakeoff" are "American Hustle," "The Great Gatsby," and "Bad Grandpa," though Johnny Depp's elderly Tonto might emerge as a rival to "Bad Grandpa."
David O. Russell's "American Hustle," of course, is steeped in 70s fashion: Studio 54, Cosmo covers, and Chanel ads adorned by Catherine Deneuve. For Amy Adams and Jennifer Lawrence, Evelyne Noraz (makeup) and Katherine Gordon (hair) focused on glitter, perms, and plunging necklines. During the frizzy casino face-off, Adams was all silvers, blues and greens compared to Lawrence's more vulgar display of brightness.
As for the guys, Christian Bale and Bradley Cooper may look like a cross between Hugh Heffner and John Travolta, but their hair dominates, with Bale's hilarious comb-over and Cooper's cute curls.
In turning Carey Mulligan's Daisy into "The Great Gatsby's" well-bred beauty, makeup artist Maurizio Silvi and hairstylist Kerry Warn made her a delicate ash blond. Her makeup is a mix of black, gray, and brown shadows followed by individual false lashes with light pink lipstick from Chanel. And her hairstyle is inspired by the semi-shingle: a layered bob with more of a masculine shape in the back.
"Bad Grandpa's" Irving Zisman (Johnny Knoxville) was transformed into a convincing senior by make-up effects vet Steve Prouty, whose makeup team went on the road like Irving and his grandson in the movie. Unlike the previous "Jackass" movies, though, they streamlined the original sculpture so Knoxville could be more expressive.
For a 10-piece silicone prosthetic make-up job with hairpieces (and full body), the makeup team had it down to under three hours. But there was no tweaking between shots and they had to believably prank people who were only a foot or two away.
Meanwhile, "The Lone Ranger's" Tonto was created by Joel Harlow in close collaboration with Depp and director Gore Verbinski. Drawing from elderly Native Americans as well as Dick Smith's legendary Jack Crabb from "Little Big Man" and Salieri from "Amadeus," they made Tonto frail yet endearing.
Jumping in just two months before principal photography, the makeup team performed full upper-body aging (including arms and torso for the shirtless Tonto), which is rarely attempted, according to Harlow. They chose a full prosthetic glue-in rather than a suit and the challenge was maintaining sculptural consistency.